The Isle of Lewis is renowned for three things – Harris Tweed, Gaelic and having the oldest group of rocks in the UK. The rock is called Lewisian gneiss. The second oldest rock group in the UK is The Rolling Stones.
In Summer 2016 I met a cyclist at Stornoway ferry terminal. I asked him where he’d been cycling on the island. He said: “I did the Hebridean way. A 185 miles route from Barra to Lewis.” I asked if he’d enjoyed it. He said: “I’ve cycled in the arctic circle in Norway. I’ve biked the far north of Canada but I’ve never been as cold and miserable as cycling here!”
I gave gave him some words of encouragement “If you think this is cold you should try it in winter!”
The Hebrides is the best place in the world on a nice day but on a bad day….
After speaking to him I looked at the route of the Hebridean way. I was disappointed. It missed out lots of great places and bike routes. So here is my improved version based on my own experience doing the route and my local knowledge of my home islands of Lewis and Harris
BARRA
The ferry from Oban arrives early evening into Castlebay. The official route recommends starting your trip the next day in Vatersay before heading north to catch a ferry to Uist.
DON’T DO THAT! Stay in Barra for two nights so you have a full day to explore the island before leaving.
Day 1: Head to Vatersay to see the official start. Make sure you have walking shoes with you as there’s a nice beach to explore here. From the start head clockwise around the island aiming to get to the airport for lunch time. They have a great onsite cafe. Check the plane timetable so you can watch the plane take off and land from the beach.
On the way to the airport stop at Barra golf club so you can see how a sheep field has been converted into a sports venue.
There’s only one hill of note which is towards the end of the route. Anyone of moderate fitness can bike up it. Park your bike at the top of the hill so you can walk up the hill to the statue overlooking Castlebay. Finish off the day with a fast downhill ride into Castlebay.
Day 2: Catch the ferry to Uist….or its day 1 if you ignored my suggestion 🙂
Personally, I’d do Uist in one day and then catch the ferry to Harris the next day. If you do have time then take two days to do it.
Get the first ferry to Uist. There is a nice cafe at the ferry terminal. Or there was the last time I was there (pre covid)
The ferry journey is short. Keep an eye out as you might spot Dolphins.
Eriskay has one of the most unusual football pitches you’ll ever see. you can read about it here https://www.fifa.com/news/fighting-for-football-s-future-on-bumpy-beautiful-eriskay
Check out the wild Eriskay pony’s. You can spot them near the Am Politican pub. Which takes its name from the stricken vessel S.S Politician which ran aground off Eriskay in 1941. This was the inspiration for the film Whisky Galore. https://www.visitouterhebrides.co.uk/food-and-drink/eat-drink-hebrides-am-politician-p562251
I wouldn’t stop for long in Eriskay. I rode on and got lunch in South Uist at the Borrodale hotel. https://www.isleshotelgroup.co.uk/borrodale-hotel
Uist is pretty flat but there is a nice climb up to the radar station https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RRH_Benbecula on a clear day you will see St Kilda from here.
North Uist is nice. I had dinner in the loch bosidale hotel https://www.lochboisdale.com/
I stayed in Berenary. Definitely check out the beaches here. The view across to Harris is stunning.
HARRIS
Day 3:
https://www.strava.com/routes/3102336666901000518
This is a controversial choice but I’d argue not to go the official way up the west coast but instead take the east coast. Heading south first means you can visit Rodel church. This is ancient church has one of earliest known representation of a man in kilt. Now a day there’s lots of men in kilts here. Its a very popular place to get married.
Next to the church is small pier which is the southernmost point you can cycle to on the Harris.
The west coast has some great beaches but the landscape of the east coast is unique to the island. A barren landscape of ancient rock and heather. The windy undulating single track road is great fun to ride.
Once you get off the east coast head for Luskentyre beach. The official route passes a bit of it but the best view can only be seen by heading along to it. If you want a challenge try running up the sand dunes. It’s hard work!
The island across from the beach is where the BBC filmed Castaway.
Finish the day by heading to Tarbert. There’s a long climb from the beach towards tarbert but once you get to the top its all downhill into the town.
http://www.hotel-hebrides.com/ does great food. There is also a good seafood shack in Scalpay (a scenic 10km away)
DAY 4 – (WARNING: Contains hills!)
https://www.strava.com/routes/3102337248141221666
Note: You can choose to miss out the one way road to Huishnish if the weather is bad.
Unfortunately Tarbert is at sea level and at the base of a hill (The Clisham), so today is going to be hilly no matter which way you go. I’ve added in some diversions off the official way.
Start by heading to Husinish Bech. At one point Madonna was going to purchase it, until she discovered the public are allowed to walk right by the windows. Robert Plant from Led Zepplin was also interested. He went for a pint in the local pub but the beer must have been bad as he never came back with a bid.
The road out to the castle packs in allot of interesting sights. There’s the ruins of an old whaling station, there’s stunning views of the harris hills and there’s the world’s most useless tennis court! It’s exposed to the wind and wild weather of the Atlantic.
From the castle you can walk up to one of the UK’s biggest cliff faces. The 600-foot cliff face of Sron Ulladale, There is an easier walk (or gravel bike path) to the eagles observatory if you want to try and see Golden Eagles.
I’ve not marked this on Strava but the re is another one way road thats realy scenic. From the top of the Clisham you can had to Rèinigeadal . Rèinigeadal had no road access until 1990; the only route in was along a hill path, or by boat. There’s a postman’s marked path from the village back to Tarbert. Imagine doing it carrying a load of Amazon parcels. It’s worth walking a bit of it as it has some spectacular views. There is a hostel at the end of the road.
Afterwards head as far north as you can but there’s a convenient stop at http://www.locherisortinn.co.uk/
Day 5:
https://www.strava.com/routes/3102338228899562118
The most spectacular bit of Lewis is Uig. It is more expensive to buy a house here than anywhere else on the island. So that shows you how good it is! 🙂
Its a one way road but worth heading there to stay the night. Try to stay near reef beach or Timsgearraidh
https://www.strava.com/routes/3102338228899562118
Check out mangersta. Check out the sea stacks and the best bothy in Scotland
Day 6:
https://www.strava.com/routes/3102338613796397382
Head back up the west coast. You will pass by the callanish stones and Carloway Broch.
Watch out for a sign that says Dail Mor beach. Its one my favorites especially if the weather is bad as it gets hit by the full force of the Atlantic.
You could head to Ness to finish the route but the road to Ness is one of the most boring drives on the island. Vast empty moor as far as the eye can see. Instead head to Stornoway as there’s much better routes that you can do from there.
If you do want to know what the end of the route looks like then check this out. I was there on a very stormy day.
Give yourself at least a couple of days in Stornoway. From here you can do some great routes.
Tour De Point – https://www.strava.com/activities/1102079723
A flat out and back route to a lighthouse. From here you can watch whales pass by. On the way back a small detour will take you to a 15% hill climb! It’s short but hard. I needed a quick rest at the top!
Castle Grounds Mountain Bike trail –https://www.strava.com/activities/1100545590
If you tire of road biking then a recently completed mountain bike trial has been constructed in the Castle Grounds. An area of forestry next to Stornoway. I hadn’t tried it before and was pleasantly surprised at how good it was. There’s no major hills but lots of undulating tracks. It was a great way to pass a few hours.
Tour De Tolsta: If you only do one route from Stornoway then do this one! The beaches along here are some of the best on the island. One of them even has its own waterfall
Originally the road to Tolsta was supposed to go all the way to Ness but it was never completed. Supposedly a local sightseer had predicted that if the road was complete then the “The day will come when the Isle of Lewis will sink beneath the waves.”
Which seems unlikely as how can a whole island sink? But, in 1995, the ferry to Ullapool was named the “Isle of Lewis”… There was no calls to complete the road whilst that ferry was operational!
There’s some great swimming spots along the route. Coll beach is very popular with the Hebrides open water swimmers.
Places to eat
https://www.caladhinn.co.uk/elevenrestaurant.html is the best food. It’s a buffet but good value and it’s all good quality. I don’t bother eating anywhere else as the other places are all a bit of a rip off!
https://www.facebook.com/blackhousebakery/ – good bakers. The cheese and mustard sausage roll is great.
Go to the Co-op and buy a “Stag Bakery’s Stornoway Biscuit” It’s like a more solid version of a scone. Delicious with butter. I buy loads when I’m at home as you can’t get them anywhere else
Twin brothers swimming, cycling and running in Scotland 